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INSTRUCTION MANUAL
MODELING THE
MODELING THE
DAPPER TOM
DAPPER TOM
F F
F F
BALTIMORE CLIPPER PRIVATEER, 1815
BALTIMORE CLIPPER PRIVATEER, 1815
Technical Characteristics
Scale: 5/32" = 1 ft.
Overall Length: 24"; Hull Length: 15-1/2"
Width: 9" (width of lower yard); Hull Beam: 4"
Height: 18" (top of main mast to bottom of keel)
Instructions prepared by Ben Lankford
©2006, Model Shipways, Inc.
Model prototype by Bob Werner
Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. •
Resumo do conteúdo contido na página número 2
HISTORY HISTORY During the 19th Century, many Baltimore Clippers were granted privateering licenses by the US Government. Since all commerce was subject to the legalized banditry of privateers, only a fast, well handled ship could be reasonably sure of reaching its destination. Privateers like the Dapper Tom depended on their sailing abilities and fire power to prey on foreign shipping and to escape the British men-of-war patrolling the high seas. The Dapper Tom,
Resumo do conteúdo contido na página número 3
tick strip and transfer it to the model. G. Miscellaneous Before You Begin 1. Tack hammer The Dapper Tom model is designed to be dis- 2. Tweezers (a few) played without sails. Much of the The Dapper Tom is an interesting model for 3. Small fine pointed scissors reconstructed rigging was developed using beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a 4. Miniature pliers references from well-known books, such as solid hull which has been machine-carved a. Small
Resumo do conteúdo contido na página número 4
Skylight Sides, Gun Carriages, Anchor to the wood. The deck plank scores can be Painting and Staining Stock - Dark Reddish Brown (preferred) or darkened with any dark color to simulate White (second choice) caulking. It would be best to first varnish the It may seem strange to begin an instruction surface, wiping the dark color into the manual with directions for applying the fin- Stern Decoration - Gold stars. scores, the wipe the surface of the
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2. Carving the Hull FIG. A-2 CORRECTING THE PROFILE TEMPLATE Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 3” x 1” x 3/4” thick. Screw the block to the deck so the model can be held in a bench vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of STATION 5 SANDING BLOCK the profile and correct it as necessary, using a long sanding block (Figure A-2). Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines BENCH VISE BLOCK (where hull meets keel) and station lines on the model (Figure A-3). Place the station MARK
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STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES 1. Installing the Keel, Stem FIG. B-1 KEEL, STEM & STERNPOST & Sternpost The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cut parts. Taper the stem and install the parts (Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan shows a GLUE GLUE scarf joint between the keel and stem with a step in the middle of the joint. This step has been eliminated in the laser-cut part. Also, the stem is shown to be made up of two pieces. A one piece stem is provided
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could also install a waterway without cutting FIG. B-5 BULWARK DETAILS LASER-CUT RAIL the nibs. Another way, the scored decking RIGGING FAIRLEAD could go into the bulwark, and a thin water- STRIPWOOD RAIL AFT BLOCK way glued on top of the decking. ALIGNMENT LASER-CUT RAIL PIN OR NAIL FORWARD 6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole PIN CL RAIL The ladder way shown on the plan indicates TYPICAL BULWARK an open hatch with a ladder. If you want to CL STANCHION do this you must cut a h
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STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS 1. General Notes FIG. D-1 TRANSOM RAIL & FASHION PIECE Don’t forget to file off any flash on Britannia TAFFRAIL TAFFRAIL metal fittings, clean the fittings and then prime TRANSOM them with grey primer before final paint. EXTENSION PIECE Locate deck fittings and place them into MOULDING STRIP ALONG position. This can be done by measuring SIDE BOTTOM OF TAFFRAIL from mast holes, station lines and centerline TRANSOM (tick off from plans). Next, m
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Install the cavils, cut from stripwood, across FIG. D-7 SKYLIGHT FIG. D-8 PUMPS the bulwark stanchions in locations shown on PAINT TO FAKE the plans (Figure D-4). GLASS & BARS HANDLE The gunport lids are Britannia castings. Install 1/32" these in the open position. Add the line for BASSWOOD retrieving and holding up the line. The cast- SIDE BRACKET WIRE 1/16" ing has a ring where the line attaches but it is BASSWOOD molded in flat with the casting so is useless for HOL
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STAGE E: MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION Most references call a mast a mast, and FIG. E-1 TAPER ON MASTS & SPARS anything else such as a boom, yard, gaff, CENTER OF A YARD, OR MAXIMUM DIAMETER and bowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with OF A MAST, GAFF, OR BOOM that definition. STRAIGHT LINE There are two mast assemblies for the Dapper Tom. They are a foremast & main mast. The foremast is built up in three sections: lower THIS IS THE DESIRED CURVE. MATHEMATICALLY, IT IS A PARABOLA. MINI
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stay and the jibsail halliard. The port side FIG. E-4 MAST DETAILS TOPGALLANT SHOULDER AT UPPER PART block is not used or is for other lines not MAST OF MAIN TOPMAST & FORE rigged on this model. Figure E-4 illustrates TOPGALLANT MAST CASTING the mast details. HOLE FOR YARD TYE CHEEK BLOCK P/S Main Boom Rest - The main mast has a rest SHEAVE HOLES CROSS TREES for the boom. The rest is a laser cut part but requires support chocks cut from stripwood TRESTLE TREES CAST
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drilled into the hull. It is suggested that you HOLE FOR JIB STAY FIG. E-9 BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY CAP CASTING do not glue the masts and bowsprit into the SADDLE BLOCK holes. The rigging will hold them in position. Furthermore, if the model gets restored in the HOLE FOR FORE EYEBOLT FOR TOPGALLANT STAY future, the masts and bowsprits can be easily JIB IN HOLE removed. FIG. E-10 MASTCOAT Check the alignment of the masts and LASER-CUT RING LASHING MASTCOAST bowsprit. If n
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Running Rigging (Tan Line) FAKED ON SMALL BLOCK OR SPAR FIG. F-1 SEIZINGS 0.008" Dia. Line - Topgallant Sail Clew lines & Sheets, Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines, Topgallant Yard Braces, Fore & Main Gaff SLIP KNOT Vangs, & Main Gaff Ensign Halliards. TUCK UP & GLUE 0.012" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Topsail Yard Braces & Sheets, All Jackstays, Fore & Main Sail Clue Garnets, Jib Stay Outhaul Tackle, CLOVE HITCH Jibboom Guys Tackle, Boom Topping Lifts, LOOP
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have enough running rigging WOOD HANDLE BRASS ROD line so it can reach to its final destination, such as a belaying FLATTEN END, pin, with a little line left. Bet- PUSH FILE SHAPE ter to be too long than too short. Standing rigging such as yard footropes are included, as these would be very difficult PULL to do with the yard hanging at LARGE LARGE the mast. SEWING SEWING NEEDLE NEEDLE FIG. F-3 RIGGING TOOLS CUT WITH SNIPS FIG. F-4 BELAYING LINES BELAYING LINE TO PIN REMOVABLE
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lant shrouds have no deadeyes or ratlines. The FIG. G-3 SETTING UP THE SHROUDS shrouds pass through the crosstrees and seize to the topmast shrouds. MAKE A LITTLE LONGER SEIZE 3. Foremast (Head) Stays THAN REQUIRED. LET LANYARDS PULL Forestay -The forestay (9) sets up to a closed SHROUDS TIGHT. TIE LANYARD and open heart and collar at the bowsprit. & GLUE STAYS The closed heart shown on the plan appears rather large for this ship. Normally, the open VIEW IS INBOARD h
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is a pair, passing on each FIG. G-7 FORE TOPMAST, JIB, CHEEK side of the foremast and BLOCK & FORE TOPGALLANT STAYS setting up port and star- board with lanyards to the AT TOP eyebolts shown on the deck plan just forward of the foremast fife rail. The stay eye would be fitted with a metal thimble (Fig- TACKLE AT DECK FORE TOPGALLANT STAY ure G-9). This BETWEEN JIB STAY arrangement is a common FIFE RAIL - BELAY TO FIFE RAIL solution. However, on some ships the stay could have set up
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STAGE H: RUNNING RIGGING Before starting on the running rigging, have all FIG. H-1 JIB HALLIARD, DOWNHAUL, & SHEETS your blocks stropped and/or seized to a line as much as possible. Some running lines may SET FIXED END TO EYEBOLT pass through a sheave hole, they require a OR WRAP AROUND THE CAP CHEEK block. If so try starting at the block and rig- BLOCK ging backward. Of course, if in such a situation a block is required on both sides of the sheave, you are stuck with hav
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3. Topsail Yards FIG. H-3 LOWER YARD CLEW GARNETS, SHEETS & TACKS The jackstays, footropes & stirrups, lifts and CL brace blocks are essentially the same as for the lower yards. Clew Lines and Sheets - The clew lines (29) are just like the lower yard clew garnets, just a CLEW GARNET P/S different name. There are no tacks. The sheets (28) hook to the clewline block, then go through a sheave (a hole will do) at the ends of HOOK TOGETHER the lower yards, through the block
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The vangs (43) are fitted port and starboard. FIG. H-5 YARD LIFTS The plan does not clearly show where the fixed end of the fall is located. Seize it to an FIXED eyebolt in the deck close to the bulwark or on FIXED RUNNING top of the cap rail directly in line with the line on the plan. The main boom sheet (45) lower block is fit- ted with a ring around the traveler rod on the TACKLE transom. The running end can be belayed port AT DECK RUNNING or starboard to the cavils on the bulwar
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FIG. H-8 TOPSAIL,YARD TYE & HALLIARD HOLE IN MAST TYE RUNNER HALLLIARD EYEBOLT IN CHANNEL BELAYTO PIN RAIL TACKLE PORT AT MAINMAST CHANNEL & STARBOARD AT FOREMAST FIG. H-9 YARD BRACES FORE TOPGALLANT YARD BRACE MAIN TOPMAST OPTION-COLLAR AROUND MAST LASH LINES & BLOCKS TO LOWER SHROUDS MAIN TOPSAIL FORE TOPSAIL YARD BRACE YARD BRACE MAIN LOWER YARD BRACE MAIN TOP FORE TOP FORE LOWER YARD BRACE ALL BRACES PORTS & STARBOARD 20
