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Note: Rockler may not carry all products and/or sizes listed in this vendor's publication
SUPPLEMENTARY
DOVETAIL JIG
INSTRUCTION
MANUAL
MODELS 4210 & 4212
(39887)
IMPORTANT
To learn more about Porter-Cable
visit our website at: Please make certain that the person who is
to use this equipment carefully reads and
http://www.porter-cable.com
understands these instructions before
starting operations.
The Model and Serial No. plate is located on the main
housing of the tool. Record these numbers in
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TABLE OF CONTENTS SAFETY GUIDELINES 3 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 3 ADDITIONAL SPECIFIC SAFETY RULES 4 BACKGROUND INFORMATION 4 OPERATION 5 MISCELLANEOUS TECHNIQUES 5 THROUGH-DOVETAILS WITH CLAMPING BOARDS 6 THROUGH-DOVETAILS WITH UNLIMITED BOARD WIDTH 8 ALTERNATIVE METHOD - THROUGH-DOVETAILS WITH UNLIMITED BOARD WIDTH 10 HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS WITH CLAMPING BOARDS 11 USING A ROUTER TABLE 13 ALTERNATE ROUTER BITS 14 HALF-BLIND DOVETAIL TAILBOARDS THICKER THAN 7/8" 17 MITERED THROUGH-DOVETAILS 18
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SAFETY GUIDELINES - DEFINITIONS This manual contains information that is important for you to know and understand. This information relates to pro- tecting YOUR SAFETY and PREVENTING EQUIPMENT PROBLEMS. To help you recognize this information, we use the symbols to the left. Please read the manual and pay attention to these sections. Indicates an imminently hazardous situation which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury. Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not
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16. AVOID UNINTENTIONAL STARTING. Do not carry a plugged-in tool with finger on switch. Be sure switch is off when plugging in. Keep hands, body and clothing clear of blades, bits, cutters, etc. when plugging in the tool. 17. OUTDOOR USE EXTENSION CORDS. When tool is used outdoors, use only extension cords marked “Suitable for use with outdoor appliances – store indoors when not in use.” If an extension cord is to be used outdoors it must be marked with the suffix W-A or w following the cord
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OPERATION MISCELLANEOUS TECHNIQUES Using these techniques can simplify your dovetailing projects. USE A DEAD-BLOW HAMMER Use a plastic dead-blow hammer to join your workpieces together to help prevent the marring of wood (Fig. 1A). CHAMFER THE TAIL EDGES Chamfering the inner tail edges can make the joints go together easier and may prevent damage to the pins (Fig. 1B). Make the chamfers with a file or a chisel. Since the chamfers are located on the inside of the joint, they will be invisible. Fi
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TEMPLATES MOUNTED TO CLAMPING BOARDS You can mount the jig templates to clamping boards and take the templates to the workpiece to make the joint. The benefits of this operation are: 1. You can maneuver a mounted template onto a large workpiece easier than clamping a large workpiece to the jig. This process allows you to join boards wider than 12" by routing a part of the joint, sliding the mounted template just past the original cut, and routing the remainder of the joint. Fig. 4B Fig. 4A Fig.
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Fig. 6B Fig. 6C Fig. 6D CUTTING THE TAILS Step 1 - Clamp the tail board with the outside surface facing away from the clamping board (Fig. 7A). Align the tail board, using the instructions in your basic manual in the section “OPERATION”. Look under “POSITIONING THE WOOD”, STEP 4. Step 2 - This step is optional. Clamp stop blocks to the clamping board for rapid setups of repeated cuts. Step 3 - Use a small square and a pencil to draw a line along the bottom of the clamping board (Fig. 7B). Align
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Fig. 8A Fig. 8B Fig. 8D Fig. 8C FITTING THE JOINT Step 1 - Orient the template so that the “PINS” side is Fig. 9A facing you (Fig. 9A). Step 2 - Loosen the two #10 screws. Step 3 - If the joint is too loose, move the template toward you slightly. Step 4 - If the joint is too tight, move the template away from you slightly. Step 5- Tighten the screws loosened in STEP 2. Step 6 - Cut the pin board again and check for fit. THROUGH-DOVETAILS WITH UNLIMITED BOARD WIDTH You can cut dovetails in boards
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CUTTING THE TAILS Step 1 - Clamp the tail board with the outside surface facing away from the clamping board (Fig. 10A). Step 2 - If the board is a width in 1" increments, (12", 13", etc.), center the edge of the board exactly between the two fingers of the template farthest to the left (Fig. 10B). Step 3 - If the board is not in 1" increments, take the fraction of an inch that is greater than 1" and divide it by two. Then move the tailboard to the left of the center of the fingers by that amoun
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Step 7 - Unclamp the templet, slide it down, and center the last cut between the two angled fingers and reclamp (Fig. 11D). Step 8 - Repeat STEPS 6 and 7 until the pins are cut across the entire board. Step 9 - Remove the pin board and check the fit with the tailboard. FITTING THE JOINT Fitting the joint is identical to the previous section (Fig. 12A). Fig. 11D Fig. 12A ALTERNATE METHOD THROUGH-DOVETAILS WITH UNLIMITED BOARD WIDTH This alternate method may be more accurate for correctly cutting
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HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS WITH CLAMPING BOARDS You can mount your half-blind template that comes with the 4210 and 4212 jigs and the 4211 accessory kit to a board. This method, however, limits your workpiece width capacity to 8". SETUP Items needed to setup for the half-blind dovetails: 1. Wood to make the clamping board parts 2. Clamps 3. 2" #10 wood screws (2) 4. 1/4-20 threaded T-nut 5. 1/4-20 x 4" bolt 6. 1/4" washer NOTE: These instructions can be modified for making half- blind dovetails with t
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Fig. 15D Step 4 - Make the straight clamping block. If the workpiece is thinner than 3/4", you will need to modify the dimension (Fig. 15D). Step 5 - Make two thickness blocks the same thickness as the pin board. Drill a hole big 3/4 " (IF THE PIN BOARD IS LESS THAN 3/4" THICK, enough for the wood screw to go through (Fig. THEN REDUCE THIS DIMENSION ACCORDINGLY) 15E). Step 6 - Assemble the board-mounted half-blind 1-1/2 " WOOD GRAIN template (Fig. 15F). 1-1/2 " 1-1/2 " NOTE: You will not need to
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Slide the straight clamping block to the left so that it contacts the pin board (Fig. 16D). Hook the straight Step 4 - clamping block over the front and back of the main clamping board. Step 5 - Secure the pin board by clamping it between the offset and straight clamping blocks (Fig. 16E). Step 6 - Loosen the #10 wood screws, align the template lines with the line where the pin board and tail board meet, and retighten the #10 wood screws (Fig. 16F). DISCONNECT THE TOOL FROM THE POWER SOURCE. Ste
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ALTERNATE ROUTER BITS You are not limited to using the router bits supplied with your jig. Other router bits can be used to produce a different look or to work with thicker woods. Using alternate bits can help you produce more advanced joints (inlayed dovetails, etc.). Since 1/2" shank bits are stronger and are much less prone to deflection than the 1/4" shank bits, we recommend that you use the 1/2" shank bits with the 4210 and 4212 dovetail jigs, and with the 4211 and 4213 accessory kits. THRO
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Some items to consider when purchasing alternate bits for half-blind dovetails are: 1. A shallow angle of the bit requires a deeper cut. A steeper angle requires a shallower cut. 2. The diameter of the bit should be slightly greater than 1/2". The greater the diameter, the deeper the cut. 3. The bit should have a cutting length at least as long as the cutting depth. NOTE: When using alternate bits, ensure that the pin board (drawer front) is thicker than the depth of cut. NOTE: When using altern
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CUTTING THE TAILS Cut the tail board (drawer side) similar to cutting the rabbeted half-blind dovetail, but remove the spacer and move the left offset guide directly against the tail board. NOTE: Support the template with a scrap workpiece thick enough to prevent the cutter from contacting the base. CUTTING THE PINS Cut the pin board (drawer front) similar to cutting the rabbeted half-blind dovetail. (If you use the alternate method of aligning the pin board with secondary board. Make sure the s
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DOVETAIL BIT TEMPLET GUIDE ROUTER SUB BASE I.D. OF TEMPLET GUIDE DOVETAIL BIT DIAMETER THERE IS A MINIMUM DEPTH OF CUT WHEN THE DIAMETER OF THE ROUTER BIT IS GREATER THAN THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE TEMPLET GUIDE Fig. 22A Cutting a dado with a templet guide that has an OD smaller than 3/4" requires two passes. 1. Start on the left side. Keep the router toward the back edge of the dado slot, and cut to the right until you have completed the cut. 2. Start on the right side. Keep the router towards
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MITERED THROUGH-DOVETAIL You can make a through-dovetail with a mitered edge, creating a molded edge that goes the whole way to the joint. This joint is very attractive on serving trays or decorative boxes without lids. Fig. 25A NOTE: Depending on the depth of the molded edge, you may want to make the boards slightly wider to account for the molded depth. If so, mount the tail board so that the mitered edge will end with the thicker half-pin. With the offset guide set against the tail board, the
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Fig. 28A Fig. 28B Fig. 28C MITERING THE TAILS Step 1 - On the inside surface, use a square and pencil to draw a line from the base of the tails to the edge where the miter will be cut (Fig. 29A). Step 2 - Set the table saw blade so that the height of cut of the saw blade is the same as the thickness of the mitered half-pin. Step 3 - Use a table saw with the miter gauge set to 45° to miter the tails. You will need to make several passes to cut out the material (Fig. 29B). NOTE: A dado head could
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CUTTING THE PINS Step 1 - Hold the pin board against the tail board and mark the edges of the tails on the end of the pin board (Fig. 32A). Step 2 - Shade in the areas on the end of the pin board where the tails will be (Fig. 32B). Step 3 - Cut all the pins (Fig. 32C). Step 4 - Slide the pin board to the right 1/4" (Fig. 32D). Step 5 - Cut in between the fingers of the template to cut only in the shaded area (A) Fig. 32D. Step 6 - Repeat STEPS 4 and 5 until all of the material between the pins h
