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300HF
Installation Guide
Table of Contents
Experienced security installers may skip to Pg. 8, but read
all the italicized sections, as they describe changes and/or new features.
Installation Points to Remember Page 2
Deciding on Component Location 3
Finding the Wires you Need 5
Step-by-step meter instructions!
Making your Wire Connections 7
Primary Harness Diagram 8
Wire Connection Guide 9
®
Plug in LED and Valet /Program Switch 11
Four-pin Shock Sensor Harness 11
Bypassing Sensor Inputs 12
Do
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Two 471T remote Primary transmitters harness H1 504D Plug-in ® Stinger shock 514N ® sensor Revenger ® Soft Chirp siren 4-pin shock sensor plug Plug-in 2-pin Status LED 3-pin micro 2-pin 2-wire LED mini door plug blue lock ® Valet / harness Program Plug-in plug ® Valet /Program switch INSTALLATION POINTS TO REMEMBER Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an anti-theft-coded radio. If equipped with an air bag, avoid discon- necting the battery if possible. IMPORTANT! Many airbag systems
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Step One: Deciding on Component Locations Siren Some things to remember when mounting the siren: • Keep it away from heat sources. Radiators, exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, and heat shields are all things to avoid. • Mount it where a thief cannot easily disconnect it, whether the hood is open or shut. Both the siren and its wires should be difficult to find. This usually involves disguising the wire to look like a factory harness. • We recommend against grounding the siren to its mounting scr
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® ® Stinger Doubleguard Shock Sensor ® Never put the Stinger in the engine compartment! Find a spot close to the control module so that the wires do not need to be extended. Keep it away from the heater core (or any other heat sources) and any obvious leaks. How the Stinger is mounted is the most important factor in its performance. We recommend two mounting methods: Using double-sided tape or hook-and-loop fastener to mount to a trim panel or an air duct, or wire-tying to a wire harness. If mou
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Optional Starter Kill Relay If Starter Kill Relay or its connections are immediately visible upon removal of the under-dash panel, they can easily be bypassed. Always make the relay and its connections difficult to discern from the factory wiring! Exposed yellow butt connectors do not look like factory parts, and will not fool anyone! For this reason, routing the starter kill wires away from the steering column is recommended. Step 2: Finding the Wires You Need Now that you have decided where ea
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Finding a (+) Parking Iight Wire The (+) parking light wire is often found near the switch. Many cars have the switch built into the turn signal lever, and in these cars the parking light wire can be found in the steering column. The same wire is often available in the kick panel or running board. NOTE: Many Toyotas, as well as many other Asian vehicles, send a (-) signal from the switch to a relay. The relay then sends 12V(+) to the bulbs. Whenever you have difficulty finding a (+) parking ligh
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How to find the (+)12V starter wire with your multimeter: 1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine). 2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. 3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire. The steering column is an excellent place to find this wire. Remember you do not need to interrupt the starter at the same point you test it. Hiding your starter kill relay and connections is always recommended. 4. Turn the ignition key switch to the start position. Make sure th
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PRIMARY HARNESS DIAGRAM H1, 12-PIN CONNECTOR H1/1 ORANGE (-) 500 MA ARMED OUTPUT H1/2 WHITE (+) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT H1/3 WHITE/BLUE NOT USED H1/4 BLACK/WHITE NOT USED H1/5 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3 H1/6 BLUE (-) INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 1 H1/7 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3 H1/8 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT H1/9 YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT, ZONE 5 H1/10 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT H1/11 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT H1/12 RED/WHITE (-) 200 MA CHANNEL 2 VALIDITY OUTPUT 8 ©
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WIRE CONNECTION GUIDE H1/1 ORANGE (-) ground-when-armed output: This wire supplies a (-) 500 mA ground as long as the system is armed. This output ceases as soon as the system is disarmed. This wire is used to control the optional 8618 starter kill relay. The 8617 relay assembly may also be used as shown in the diagram below. NOTE: If connecting the orange wire to control another module, such as a 529T or 530T window controller, a 1 amp diode (type 1N4004) will be required. Insert the diode as s
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H1/5 GREEN (-) door trigger or H1/7 VIOLET (+) door trigger input: If the door switch wire you found is (-) when the door is open, connect the GREEN wire to it. If the door switch wire you found is (+) when the door is open, use the VIOLET wire instead. IMPORTANT! Test to make sure this wire "sees" all doors! H1/6 BLUE (-) instant trigger: This input will respond to a (-)input with an instant trigger. It is ideal for hood and trunk pins and will report on zone one. If connecting several inputs
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H1/11 RED (+)12V constant power input: Before connecting this wire, remove the supplied fuse. Connect to the battery positive terminal or the constant 12V supply to the ignition switch as described on Page 5. NOTE: Always use a fuse within 12 inches of the point you obtain (+)12V. Do not use the 10A fuse in the harness for this purpose. This fuse protects the module itself. H1/12 RED/WHITE channel 2, 200mA (-) output: When the system receives the code controlling channel, for longer than 1.5 se
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BYPASSING SENSOR INPUTS There are times when you need to temporarily bypass all sensor inputs to the unit, such as when remote starting the vehicle. Anytime an auxiliary channel output is used, all inputs are bypassed for 5 seconds. During the 5 second bypass period, ground can be supplied to the H1/6 BLUE wire without triggering the unit. When the 5 second bypass period ends, if the unit sees ground on the H1/6 BLUE wire, all trigger inputs except the door trigger input will remain bypassed un
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Many domestically-made GM vehicles use Type A locks. However, many more GM vehicles are now Type C than in previous years. The full-size pickups (1989-up), many of the S10 Blazers, the Corvette, '95 Cavalier/Sunfire 1993 - and newer, Camaro/Firebird all use Type C door locks, and cannot be controlled without a 451M! Almost all domes- tically-built Fords are Type C. Ford builds almost no Type A systems. Chrysler builds both Type A and Type C, so use care. IMPORTANT! Remember that functions of the
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Type C - Reversing Polarity Interfacing with a reversing polarity system requires either two relays or one 451M (not included). It is critical to identify the proper wires and locate the master switch to interface properly. Locate wires that show voltage on lock and unlock. Cut one of the suspect wires and check operation of the locks from both switches. If one switch loses operation in both directions and the other switch operates in one direction only, you have located one of the target wires.
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Type E - Mercedes-Benz and Audi (1985 & Newer) Door locks are controlled by an electrically activated vacuum pump. Some Mercedes and Audis use a Type D system. Test by locking doors from the passenger key cylinder. If all the doors lock, the vehicle's door lock system can be controlled with just two relays (optional). The control wire can be found in either kick panel and will show (+)12V when doors are unlocked and (-) ground when doors are locked. To interface see diagram below. The system mus
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TRANSMITTER/RECEIVER LEARN ROUTINE™ ™ ® In order to enter Learn Routine the Valet /Program button must be plugged into the blue port. There is a basic sequence to remember whenever programming this unit: Door, Key, Choose, Transmit and Release. 1. Door Open a door. Either the H1/5 green or the H1/7 violet door trigger wire must be connected for the control unit to “see” an open door. 2. Key Turn the ignition on to the run position. The H1/9 yellow switched ignition input must be connected. 3. Ch
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TWO-VEHICLE OPERATION WITH SINGLE TRANSMITTER You can get two-vehicle operation with the transmitters that come with the system. However, you cannot use all the auxiliary channels of the system (or all the auxiliary channels of the other system), unless using a 485T 4-button transmitter. Here's what to do: 1. Using Learn Routine™, program Button I into system # 1 as the arm/disarm button. Do this with all four remotes. 2. Do the same with system # 2, except program Button II of all four remotes
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OPERATING-SETTINGS LEARN ROUTINE™ Many of the operating settings of this unit are programmable. They can be changed whenever necessary through a ™ ® computer-based Learn Routine . The Valet /program push-button switch, plugged into the blue port is used together with a programmed transmitter to change the settings. To program settings remember: Door, Key, Choose, Transmit and Release. 1. Door Open a door. Either the H1/5 green or the H1/7 violet door trigger wire must be connected for the contro
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® 4. Transmit While holding the Valet /program button, use the arm/disarm button of the transmitter, to toggle between the one and two chirp settings. The one-chirp settings are the factory defaults. 5. Release The button can now be released. For example, to program the arming mode from active to passive, press and release the Valet/program button once. Then press and hold it. The siren will chirp once, indicating that the setting can now be changed. While holding the Valet/program button, press
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FEATURE DESCRIPTIONS 1 – ACTIVE/PASSIVE ARMING: When active arming is selected, the system will only arm when the transmitter is used. When set to passive, the system will arm automatically 30 seconds after the last door is closed. Passive arming is indicated by the rapid flashing of the LED when the last protected entry point is closed. 2 – ARM/DISARM CHIRPS ON/OFF: This feature controls the chirps that confirm the arming and disarming of the system. 3 – IGNITION CONTROLLED DOOR LOCKS ON/OFF: W
