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DC500 Troubleshooting Updates February 2, 2006
Q – My battery does not last long and runs out after only one dive or about 50 pictures.
A – The DC500 uses the most powerful lithium rechargeable battery available. With a freshly charged
battery, you should get about 1.5 hours of use or about 100 pictures with proper power management.
Here are some tips to maximize battery life:
1. Make sure that you initially charge the battery overnight (minimum 8 hours). Then the battery must be
fully dischar
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IF the date code is A through J, check to see that the two black rubber caps are in place. Without these in place the camera is not sitting properly and out of reach of the shutter button. If any of the rubber caps are missing, SeaLife can ship out a new rubber caps that the consumer can replace (Item# SL11052). IF the date code is equal to K or greater, the black rubber caps are not necessary. Other possible answer(s): The shutter button on the housing should only require about 3 pounds of
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Q –The Flash Link Adapter keeps popping off, when using TWO strobes, A – The Flash Link adapter grabs around the lens port but can be pulled off under excessive stress. To avoid this it is important to feed the Flash Link cables up from under the camera and up into the adapter, so the cable is relaxed and not pulling on the adapter. It may also help to the cable to the flash arm using with a low-profile zip tie to keep firmly in position. Q – Camera has no power A – Make sure the battery is in
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2. The camera will set the focus on the subject located in the center of the picture. Align the square located in the center of the LCD over the subject. Subjects outside this square may not be in focus if they are closer or farther away. The depth of field for close-up pictures is only a few inches. 3. The camera’s auto focus system needs light to “see” the subject. In darkness, the camera uses the red focusing light located next to the camera’s flash to illuminate the subject. You can als
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2. Set Digital Flash Pre-Flash switch to “0”. Make sure Camera and External Flash batteries are fully charged. Turn Flash to ON and wait for green ready-light to turn on. 3. Here’s an easy test to make sure the External Flash is firing and synchronized with the camera. Take a picture of the External Flash, pointing the camera at the flash sensor. Do this with the camera removed from the flash base and without the Flash Link optical cable connected. The picture should show the flash firing. I
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d. Slowly tighten the screw in _ turn increments using the Allen wrench provided. Pull on the cable after every _ turn until it’s secure. Be very careful not to over tighten the screw or you will damage the cable. If you think you may have over-tightened the screw, loosen the screw and inspect the cable. If the cable is crushed, cut off the end of the cable with a razor blade and remove about 1/16” (1.6mm) of the black sheathing. e. Attach the Flash Head Adapter to the External Flash. First,
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Secure cable around flash arm or, secure cable to arm using a zip tie g. Don’t forget to insert black rubber sensor cover over flash sensor located farthest from the camera. h. Take a few test pictures to make sure the External Flash fires. i. If you still experience a flash firing issue after reviewing the above information, please send the camera system to the SeaLife Service department for a complete evaluation Q – A “card error” message appears on the LCD after powering on the camera A – Mos
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3) Format the camera’s internal memory and SD memory card. The Format function is located in Set-Up mode menu. 4) Report the camera lock-up issue to the SeaLife Service center. Email: service@sealife-cameras.com. Q – The black rubber tube ring (flashguard) in the lens port area comes out. Is this normal? A – Yes, this part is designed to be removed for easy cleaning of the housing lens. This is the flashguard that prevents the inner camera’s flash from reaching the lens and causing glare. T