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OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODEL 385. 17622
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SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control. Advice on the oper
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4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep IMPORTANT SAFETY ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. INSTRUCTIONS 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. 6. Do not use outdoors. Read all instruction before using this sewing machine. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is
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TABLE •OF CONTENTS SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE Zigzag Stitches ........................... 23_31 • Basic Zigzag ............................. 23 A Portable Caseor Cabinet is Available .............. 3 • Satin Stitch ............................. 23 Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 3_4 • Applique ............................... 24 Identify the Accessories ........................ 4 • Bar Tacking ............................. 24 • Sew a Button ............................ 25 SECTIO
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SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available Locate and Identify the Parts A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Thread Spool Pins Take-up Lever Upper Thread Guide Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . , . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- Selector Release .where. Bobbin Winding Tension Disc Bobbin Winding Spindle \ Top Thread Tension Control Stitch Length Control Face Cover Pla
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i, SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE Identify the Accessories Arm Cover Plate Carrying Handle nhole opener Hand Wheel Bobbin Presser Foot Lever Auto Clutch Knob _ Large screw driver Light and Power Switch Free Arm Sliding buttonhole foot Darning plate Plug Connector _Nomenclature Plate Zipperfoot Lint brush Foot Control Straight stitch foot all screw driver Needle Clamp Screw Satin stitch foot Presser Foot
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power • Foot Control Use light Foot control Plug 4. Push the light and power switch to turn connector The foot control regulates the speed at on the power and sewing light. which you saw, Machine plug To increase speed, gently press down with SAFETY FEATURE: the ball of your foot. J Your machine will not operate unless the NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your To decrease speed, release your fo
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING • Thread Cutter • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever • Setting Spool Pins f t Spool " Normal up position positior High position ip position Presser foo'_ lever J The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the thread after you finish sewing. Just use the presser foot. machine. handy thread cutter. You can raise it about 1/4" higher
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine (Continued) Choose the Needle and Thread • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable • Accessory Storage Box Change the PresserFoot • To Changethe Needle Extension Table ! Needle clamp screw % Flat side away fror£1 J you To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage Use the correct presser foot for ) (for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you. the stitch you wish to sew. NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest 1. Grip the
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r z ¸ ,/• i ¸ SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart NEEDLE RECOMMENDED FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH COLOR SETTING Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Polyester Core/Cotton 2 Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, 11-ORANGE Wrap (12 stitches per Fine Mercerized Co,on inch) Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy Silk A j Medium Weight: Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are CQtton, Cotton Blend, Percale, Gingham, 50 Mercerize
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Prepare the Bobbin • Wind the Bobbin • To Remove the Bobbin Casefrom the Machine Release clutch by turning the clutch knob inside the hand wheel toward you to stop the needle from moving while you wind the J bobbin. Remove the extension table from To remove bobbin case from shut- tle, pull open latch of bobbin case. the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by Pull bobbin case straight out of pulling down the embossed part on shuttle.
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING • Wind the Bobbin (Continued) f ) Wind thread until winder stops. Place bobbin onto bobbin winding Draw thread from spool through Pull end of thread through hole in Push bobbin winding spindle to the bobbin as shown. spindle with end of thread coming bobbin winding tension disc as shown, left and clip thread. Remove bobbin. from the top of the bobbin. Push Turn clutch knob away from you bobbTn winding spindle to the right while holding hand wheel for nor
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Prepare the Top Thread • Thread the Needle J Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever. Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool. 1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands. 2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder. The numbered steps above follow the numbers 3. Firmly draw t
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Pick Up the Bobbin Thread ! 3. Pull both threads under and to the 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold top back of "the presser foot, leaving 4 top thread. thread loosely in left hand and rotate to 6 inches of thread clear. handwheel toward you one complete turn. If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check: 1. Is needle threaded from front to back? 2. Is thread tangled around needle? 3.
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose the Correct Tension: Top side of fabric The best tension will depend on; the stiffness and thickness of the fabric Setting mark the number of fabric layers --- the type of stitch ( thread The top thread The top thread is too loose. is too tight Tighten thread Top side Top side of fabric of fabric For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of The top thread The bobbin
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Reverse Stitch Control For Zigzag Stitch In a correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust the top tension. Top tension Top tension Too Loose Too Tight Just Right To reverse stitch, hold down this control during Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric sewing. Release to sew
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Stitch Selector stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch Jr. ..... I I Selector Release length control. ZONES Setting mark (_)_etting mark @_ • Red ......... Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches • Green ........ Geometric Decorative Stitches /" "'_tito. Selector • Blue ......... Built-in Buttonhole Making • Brown ....... Stretch Stitches =. = = = \= lt%.o_Pattern Selector Dial 1) Raise the needle to its highest position.
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Stitch Length Control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance 0 3 4 ,./-Setting mark I I / titch Length / \ I // Stitch Length t o--i--=-,,;--+--, +_ ! \ ---- I Yn I ,, = i] 1 1,, / o--1-1-3-,-_ =H !)t'lJ \ • i ,,¢/ Stitch ._ Control "'.._.._ etting mark To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at • position. The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch stitch setting. be in the detent position between S and L (Vposition)
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SECTION2. PREPARE THE MACHINEFORSEWING StartingTo Sew Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequentl
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SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides Set the Machine Stitch I Stitch length I control red I zone Stitch selector Cornering Guide The seam guides on the needle plate are there to help you measure seam Straight foot 1. Raise the presser foot. 7. At the end of the seam, you may width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with 2. Raise the needle to its highest want to reverse to lock the stitch, the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked. position .... 8_ Raise the presser f