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Mastering
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BERNINA Sergers Your
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BERNINA
Mastering Your
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BERNINA
Serger
Owner’s Workbook
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MASTERING YOUR BERNINA SERGERS 2/15/03 1
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©2003 BERNINA® of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Table of Contents Class 1 - General Information ..................................................... 3 Introduction ..................................................................................................... 4 Presser Feet & Accessories ........................................................................... 5 Needles ........................................................................................................... 6 Thread.......
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Class 1 General Information Class Overview Machine Overview Basic Serging Samples Parts of the serger 1 Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Setting up the serger 2 Adjusting Tensions - Loopers 3 Adjusting Tensions - Loopers Serger Accessories 4 Adjusting Tensions - Needles Tweezers 5 Stitch Length Adjustment Lower Looper Threader (700D only) 6 Cutting Width Adjustment Needle Threader 7 Differential Feed - Stretch (optional for 700D & 800DL) 8 Differential Feed -
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Introduction ® Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA serger! This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at ® your BERNINA dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with ® the features of your new BERNINA overlock machine. In addition, you will learn about needles, threads, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase your knowledge of serging and assist y
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Presser Feet & Accessories ® BERNINA Presser Feet: • are precision engineered for specific functions • are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to increase speed and production with professional looking results • do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.) • are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the industry, such as the Serging ® Tec
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Needles Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When select- ing the correct needle for any serging project, three things must be Notes considered: Needle system – 130/705H Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Needle Chart Never use a needle bigger than size 90/14 in your serger; larger needles can interfere with looper movement and cause damage. Ball Point 70-90 Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece. Stretch 70-90 A stretch needle has a more rounded point and a blue anti-cling coating which helps to prevent skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes ® used on Ultrasuede , vinyl, and plastic. A com
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Thread Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately Notes 37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, an overlock machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Thread Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and mar- keting of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics. Notes Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen. Fiber – refers to the type of materi
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Mastering ® Your BERNINA Sergers ® BERNINA Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6” Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal Notes Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread ......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue) Presser Foot ............
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Sample Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Upper Looper.............................. 3-5 Cutting Width ..............................2-3 Lower Looper.............................. 3-5 Stitch Length .........................2.5mm Left Needle ................................. 3-5 Differential Feed............................ N Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in ® MASTERING YOUR
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Mastering ® Your BERNINA Sergers ® BERNINA Adjusting Tensions Fabric .................................................. 6 pieces firm fabric, each 3” x 6” ........................................................1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3” x 4” Notes Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread ..................................................
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Adjusting Tensions Samples Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Upper Looper.............................. 3-5 Cutting Width ..............................2-3 Lower Looper.............................. 3-5 Stitch Length .........................2.5mm Left Needle ................................. 3-5 Differential Feed............................ N Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in ® MASTERING YOUR BERN
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Mastering ® Your BERNINA Sergers ® BERNINA Adjusting Tensions, continued Upper Looper - Increased Tension Adjust the upper looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the Notes tension on the looper thread. Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold. Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The lower looper thread is pulled tightly to the front of the stitch. Label, trim, and mount the sample. Upper Looper - Decreased Tension Change the up
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Adjusting Tensions Samples Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Upper Looper.............................. 3-5 Cutting Width ..............................2-3 Lower Looper.............................. 3-5 Stitch Length .........................2.5mm Left Needle ................................. 3-5 Differential Feed............................ N Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in ® MASTERING YOUR BERNIN
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Mastering ® Your BERNINA Sergers ® BERNINA Adjusting Tensions, continued Right Needle - Decreased Tension Adjust the right needle thread tension lever to 2 (down) to decrease Notes the tension on the needle thread. Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold. Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large loops on the back of the fabric. Label, trim, and mount the sample. Left Needle - Decreased Tension Adjust the left needle thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the tension
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Adjusting Tensions Samples increased left & right needle tensions decreased right needle tension decreased left needle tension Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Upper Looper.............................. 3-5 Cutting Width ..............................2-3 Lower Looper.............................. 3-5 Stitch Length .........................2.5mm Left Needle ................................. 3-5 Differential Feed............................ N Right Needle .....
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Mastering ® Your BERNINA Sergers ® BERNINA Stitch Length Adjustment Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6” Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal Notes Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread ......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue) Presser Foot ...............
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Mastering ® BERNINA Sergers Your ® BERNINA Stitch Length Adjustment Sample 4mm 3mm 2mm 1mm Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Upper Looper.............................. 3-5 Cutting Width ..............................2-3 Lower Looper.............................. 3-5 Stitch Length .........................2.5mm Left Needle ................................. 3-5 Differential Feed............................ N Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Rolled Edge Lever ......................
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Mastering ® Your BERNINA Sergers ® BERNINA Cutting Width Adjustment Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6” Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal Notes Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread ......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue) Presser Foot ...............
