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Forced Induction Racing
VQ35DE Install Kit Instructions
2002+ Nissan SE-R Spec-V (W/6spd)
Revised Date: 2/16/06
Thank you for purchasing our VQ35DE install kit. We have spent
numerous hours, designing, and perfecting this kit, over the past 8
months. The end result, is a user-friendly, easy to work with kit, that
will allow you to “bolt-in” a VQ35DE engine and 6 speed
transmission.
Recommended Tools:
Metric/Standard socket sets (3/8 and 1/2)
Torque wrench and Pry-
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**BEFORE YOUR BEGIN** This kit was design with simplicity in mind. Installing the VQ drive- train will be fairly straight-forward. However, it will require moderate automotive knowledge, and the right tools to complete the job. If your are unsure about the installation, PLEASE, bring your vehicle to a qualified automotive shop to complete your installation. The hardest aspect of this installation, is the wiring of the ECU (Engine Control Unit) harness and sub-harness. Diagrams can
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(1) 1/2” bolt (6” long) 2 washers/1 lock nut (2) 1/2” bolts (5” long) 4 washers/1 lock nut (1) M10 x 1.75 lock nut and 1 washer If you have purchased a full kit with the VQ35DE bell-housing, please take the time to make sure the following is installed: (1) Throw out bearing pivot ball (1) Input shaft seal (1) Passenger side axle seal
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Once you have verified the contents of your kit, it’s time to move on to the installation. We will begin, with the assumption that you have removed your QR25DE and transmission. We will also assume that you have swapped over your bell-housing on your transmission, or, you have purchased a 6 speed Maxima transmission. If you are attempting to swap the bell-housing yourself, then you should be familiar with the
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Factory Service Manual. If you need the manual for this particular application, it will be saved in a separate folder on this installation CD. Here is a picture, showing the difference between the QR and VQ 6 speed bell-housings: The VQ bell-housing is shown on the left side, with the QR internals already installed. The old QR bell-housing is shown on the right. It is important to check clearances and re-shim the main/input shaft and gear stacks if necessary. As stated, please use
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use of a high quality clutch alignment tool. This will make the next step a lot easier. Grab a buddy, and have him/her help you lift the transmission up a few inches. Slide the input shaft into the clutch disc splines. The transmission should slide onto the two dowel pins that line it up perfectly with the engine block. Thread in the 17mm and 14mm bolts. If your engine did not come with the bolts, you will need to order them from Nissan. Torque the 17mm bolts to 45ft lbs. Torque
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A. Tighten this nut/bolt down LAST. Torque to 30-35ft lbs B. Tighten these bolts into the block by hand, and just snug them for now. We will torque them later. Don’t worry about the C-shims right now, either. C. This bolt hole is no longer used Once you have completed the rear mount/brackets, it’s time to move on to the front brackets. The front bracket/adaptor will be loosely assembled. It should be as follows: A. Torque to 35-40 ft lbs (mounts to front of engine block)
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Once you have completed that task, you should install the passenger- side engine mount bracket and adaptor. You should also take the time to bolt your QR passenger side engine mount to the VQ mount/adaptor bracket. Tighten it all up while the engine is still OUT OF THE CAR. This will make your life MUCH easier. Trust me.. ☺ It should look something like this: C. Replace your VQ bracket with this modified version, using the same 17mm bolts and bottom nut that should have come wi
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needed. Torque the stud/nut and bolt/lock washer on the holes marked “B” to 45ft lbs. Remember, it is VERY important that you tighten those bolts in the sequence listed above. Otherwise, you will not be able to tighten the 17mm VQ engine bracket that is behind the 3/8” bolt for the QR mount! Once you have finished that, you are ready to install the engine/transmission. Hoist the engine/transmission into the car on a angle, so that the transmission side goes into the car first,
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A & B- Add/Remove shims from between the QR engine mount and the adaptor plate, as needed to get your engine as level as possible. Remember, start with 2-3. That should get you very close. You may also have to use a few washers on the under- side of the stud on the hole marked “B”, as the stud is a decent length. There should be plenty of washers to accommodate you. C- This hole is no longer used.
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Listed above, is where you should insert your 14mm bolt to hold the transmission bracket into the mount. Once you’ve got your engine in place, it’s time to modify and install the cross-member/front and rear mounts. Using your grinder/dust mask/eye protection/ear plugs, grind the posts on the rear QR engine mount, so that it fits into the rear VQ engine mount bracket. You should have to grind roughly 3/8 of an inch total to get it to fit inside the bracket. I have a picture shown
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Once you get the correct clearance, you will need to drill out the front engine mount to fit the larger, 1/2” diameter bolt. Using the corresponding drill bit, drill the front mount hole so that the 1/2” bolt slides in and fits snug. The front mount is shown in the above picture at the top. After modifying the mounts, you can now install the cross-member and front/rear mounts. Using your jack and a friend… have your friend jack up on the transmission while you are under the c
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you get the rear mount in, pivot the front mount adaptor so that it lines up with the QR engine mount isolator. You may have to use the jack to pivot the engine/transmission in order to get the 1/2” bolt into the mount. The fit will be very snug. Once you get the bolt in, place your washer/lock-nut on the bolt to hold it in place. Using your jack, again, jack up on wherever is needed to get your 17mm front and rear cross-member-to-frame bolts in place. You may have to use a pry- bar t
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This one is pretty easy… There’s a second set of holes that are closer towards the block. You will use those, instead of the original holes. Torque the 1/2” bolt/nut to 55ft lbs. The last step in the mechanical aspect of this install, is to install the axles. The driver’s side axle, will bolt right in. No modification required. For the passenger side axle… You will need to remove the QR bracket that bolts the axle to the QR block. It is held on by (3) 12mm bolts. Once y
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install depth into the transmission. Torque the 12mm bolts to 25ft lbs, and use Red Loc-Tite on the threads! After tightening the 12mm bolts down, go back, and torque the engine mount adaptor bolts in the block to 35-40ft lbs. I recommend using loctite on those as well. Visually inspect the axle, and make sure that it’s sitting flush/perpendicular in the transmission. It’s a good idea to push/hold the axle into the transmission while tightening the mount adaptor bolts. This will hel
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You will only be able to use those 2 bolts, but it will hold up just fine. Our test car has been running for almost 6 months with this setup. If you drill the holes slightly larger, you can line the pulley up better, so that you can use 6 rib belt, instead of 5 rib. Take your time, and line it up, and you will be fine. Tighten those 14mm bolts down tight, and use some Loc-Tite for added insurance. The Power Steering pump from the VQ works fine. Your QR hoses will clamp/bolt rig
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the QR’s factory fan relay. From there, you can put 12 volts switched to the factory relay, and just run the fans constantly. This will help keep things cool under the hood. The wiring is a pain in the butt.. no way around it. You will end up using sections of your QR harness along with the donor VQ harness. Take your time, and if you need diagrams, let me know. I will do my best to help you. You MUST use the NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) with the VQ ECU. There is no way
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Other than that.. good luck with your swap, and if you have any questions, feel free to contact me at TravisFIR@gmail.com or 985- 713-1542 from 9am to 5pm Central Time. You can reach me after- hours on the forums (www.b15sentra.net www.thevboard.com) Be safe, and enjoy your newly found power! ☺
